On and Don

Tashkent

With no time to recover from a day in a taxi, I then rode the train to the capital, Tashkent. Another 8 hours. No historic monuments really to see here as Genghis Khan and the 1966 earthquake pretty much levelled…

Bukhara-Khiva-Nukus

I’d wanted to finish my riding by crossing the Kyzyl Kum desert but every cyclist I questioned deterred me. 500km of regularly potholed highway with feral motorists. Only occasional water stops. Scrub rather than elegant dunes. Approaching from the east,…

Bukhara

Bukhara

Rakhima was a bubbly lady but she was unfortunately busy working (as an English teacher) during my couple of days in Bukhara. I popped into one of her classes to talk about life on a bike with her students. It…

Samarkand-Bukhara

Samarkand-Bukhara

Whilst in Samarkand autumn arrived so mornings started with rain and jumpers were needed. Typically, I headed into the Nuratau mountains. Little mountains but still. At the first cafe in Chelak, just outside Samarkand, a group of friendly blokes crowded…

Samarkand

Samarkand

My entry into Samarkand took me along narrow, badly cobbled streets crowded with the tilted houses of the poor majority of the city dwellers. A bit festering. But this is not the Samarkand that tourists experience. We are mainly confined…